The desert wilds

Hola amigos!

Feel like I haven´t written in a while, but I guess sometimes you need time to have the adventures before you can write about them!! And over the last week, there have been plenty of adventures! From getting kidnapped at the bus station by some crazy Europeans to suffering the effects of dizzying altitudes in the Argentinian highlands, the last few days have taken me through some of the most captivating scenery I´ve ever seen. I only hope I can do it justice in both describing and showing you (again, photos waiting on a computer capable of uploading them!)!!

It all started after a 24 hour bus ride from Iguazu (which will be a whole nother story in itself!), and me arriving somewhat dazed at the bus station in Salta, approached within minutes by some dude claiming to be my transfer to the hostel which I hadn´t arranged. As I was trying to work out whether he was trying to scam me for all I have (100 pesos and some dirty laundry at that stage!), I bumped into my friends from the football match in BA who were on their way to rent a car for the week and drive around some of the towns in the area. Sounded like a pretty good idea to me, as there is lots to see and tours are expensive, so cancelled my hostel and jumped straight in the car with them (hadn´t had enough driving for the day apparently!).

We were headed south to the town of Cafayate, along route 69 which snakes its way through the Quebrada de Cafayate, and some absolutely spectacular scenery. I´m a bit of a fan of arid landscapes, and this was definitely a dry place to be, but the changing colours, shapes and textures seemed to create a new picture-postcard opportunity at every turn. I think this would be a geologists paradise, but as I´m no expert on the subject my best description is that it looked like someone had taken to the place with a giant jackhammer. All the rock strata were poking out at strange angles and I´m sure all those colours etc tell of some interesting geological story as to how the place came to be, but that might be a job for google at another time.

Cafayate itself is quite bizarre, as having come through a seemingly dry and hostile landscape, you pop up in this small little town of adobe houses surrounded by vineyards in what is apparently one of Argentina´s best wine producing regions. We thankfully had a lovely hostel to stay in, with a Señora who was so friendly and motherly (and concerned we had hot water!) giving us kisses and god-bless-yous goodbye it made me want to stay more than just one night!

But alas, much more to see, and from Cafayate we went to Quilmes, some Inca ruins further south. I couldn´t get used to the contrast of the imposing, barren mountains as a backdrop for lush vineyards, but apparently it works! The ruins themselves were impressive, all stone walls reminiscent of Yorkshire fields that extended right up the mountain like an ampitheatre. Unfortunately the English translation in the booklets was absolutely impossible to understand so don´t really have any idea what it was about. As in any foreign country translations (or lost in translations) are quite hilarious here sometimes. The combination of words tends to make absolutely no sense, presumably plucked straight from the internet by someone with zero English. If I can find the brochure, I´ll put some extracts up for a laugh!

The drive on took us through more mountains and little villages (sometimes consisting only of a signpost. Or a donkey!). Unlike BA, the people here are much darker, and culturally they are worlds apart. This is apparently one of Argentina´s poorest regions, but even in mudbrick houses the small farming communities seem to work. The towns are pretty, clean and quite quaint, with immaculate plazas that suggest to me a level of pride amongst the very friendly people (that thankfully speak a little slower up here!) despite their lack of financial wealth. And, the adobe houses make for lovely photos in the setting sun!

So that is the first half of this week´s adventures I won´t push your reading limits. I will save the altitude stories and llama cuisine for next time.

Adios amigos!